Q. Where do I find model and serial numbers on my Merc?
A.The rather rare 1940 models were marked on the top of the rope sheave where the rope was wrapped for starting. The ID plate on 1941 thru 1946 models was riveted to the starboard side of the leg just below the powerhead. 1947-55 models with gas tanks on the engine are identified on the instruction plate riveted across the front of the engine. 1949-53 Four Cyl. models: On instruction plate riveted to large cast cover over front of engine. Mark 6-6A Six H.P. models with neutral clutch and remote tank have their ID on the port side of the swivel bracket (suspension) just below the powerhead. 1956-58 Four Cylinder 30 H.P. Mark 30 models have the ID just below the front cowl cover.
All other modelshave the serial numbers on the swivel bracket, either across the front just below the powerhead, or on a rearward face of this same suspension piece.
Q. OK, I have the serial number. Where is the year?
A. It really is not important to know the year of your
motor if you have the serial number. The serial number (combined with
model or horsepower) should always be used to accurately order parts and
manuals. Check our model listing page for a
hyperlink to your model, where you will find serial number-to-year
information. If your model is not yet listed or hyperlinked and you need to know the year, we can look it up for you when
you call to place an order.
Q. The serial plate is missing from my Mercury motor. How can I identify the year?
A. This can be next to impossible. Often, raised casting numbers from the cylinder block, together with numbers stamped into the carburetor can help us to narrow in on the year.
From a restoration standpoint, engines without serial numbers have no basis to work from for correctness and might best serve as parts motors.
Q. Can you tell me the horsepower from the serial number?
A. Generally, this is not possible for most older Mercury outboards. Starting at about the mid-eighties, most Mercs can be identified by serial number alone.
Q. What is the proper fuel to oil ratio for my old outboard?
A. The currently preferred fuel is the mid grade (89 octane). All post World War II non-racing Mercs (except KB-4's) can operate safely on a 50 to 1 fuel/oil mixture using modern TCW 3 oil. Racing models and the KB-4's should not be run leaner than 25 to 1.
Q. Should lead additives be used with old outboards?
A. NO! Lead was never needed or desirable in any 2 cycle engine. The oil that is mixed with the gas provides all the needed lubrication.
Q. How much is my old outboard worth?
A. This is not an easy question to answer, as it is dependent on many factors.
We are not able to offer appraisals. The best place to find information on the value of old outboards is in Peter Hunn's
The Old Outboard Book Volume III.
Q. Can I use regular gear lube in my "Old Merc"?
A. Mercury originally recommended a light grease in all 1961 and older 1, 2, and 4 cylinder models except the 1961 Merc 500. Grease was also recommended in the 1962 Merc 250. We still feel this is the best choice for these older motors. We carry 105 Lubriplate, which is the equivalent,
in a 10 oz. tube.
For Mercs newer than this, we carry and
recommend Mercury's Premium Gear Lube.
Q. What advice can you give for winterizing my "Old
Merc"?
A. There are essentially two forces your engine needs to
be protected from during the off-season. The first is cold
temperatures (and the possibility of freeze damage) and the second is any
possible side effects resulting from a period of disuse. Fortunately
the necessary precautions are fairly easy and straightforward.
Not
everyone will have the option of storing boats and motors indoors for
protection from the elements. For the rest of us, some simple steps
can help avoid damage and prolong engine life. First, be certain no
water is present in the gearcase before freezing temperatures arrive.
Not only will water left in the gearcase cause rusting, but the expansive
force of freezing water is strong enough to crack gear cases. This is
a good time to change the gear lube completely (see gear lube info, above.)
Covering boat and motor for storage outdoors is a good idea.
Shrink-wrapping probably offers the best protection for several reasons.
Its tight, taut fit won't sag and puddle water, and will shed snow and ice
easily. Rain proof vents are added to shrink wrap so that any
remaining moisture can leave and the boat can "breathe." Conventional
canvas-type covers should always be removed before shrink-wrapping and
stored separately in a dry place.
Mildew prevention products should be
placed under the cover, according to package directions. Any time a
boat is stored out of water it should be with bow slightly elevated and
drain plug out so that any moisture that finds its way in can drain out.
Engine disuse is a second factor that can easily be prepared for.
It is recommended that fuel be stabilized with a product such as
CRC Fuel Stabilizer
if the engine will not be used for one month or more. Add stabilizer
to your fuel tank according to package instructions to keep fuel fresh for
next season and protect against gum & resin build-up. Run the engine
so that the product will be drawn into the engine fuel system and provide
protection to the carb(s), fuel pump(s), and fuel lines. (Remember
never to run the engine without adequate cooling water supply. Running
your engine dry for even a minute can destroy your water pump and leave you
vulnerable to overheating. If you want to run your outboard in the
driveway, use a flushing adapter designed
for running the engine with a hose.) A storage fogging oil such as
Mercury's Storage Seal should
also be used during the final run of the season to protect the engine
internally from rust and corrosion. With engine running (after
allowing stabilized fuel to run thru engine), disconnect fuel line from fuel
tank. Spray fogging oil into the carburetor(s) until the engine
stalls. For non-running engines, remove the spark plugs and spray into
each hole, then turn the engine over several times by the starter and
replace the spark plugs.
For additional rust and corrosion protection, spray the engine externally
with Corrosion Guard.
Linkages and fittings can be lubricated with
Mercury 2-4-C lube. It is
a good idea to remove the prop at this time and grease the propshaft with
2-4-C.
Following these simple steps will help insure that your engine lasts for
many seasons to come.
Modern fuel injected outboards and inboard/outboard (sterndrives) will
need additional winterizing steps. See your dealer.
Q. I have the service manual and I've tried
everything and can't get my engine to run properly. What can I do?
A. Most people can't find competent professionals to
work on old outboards. Shipping a motor far away for service is a poor
solution. The best solution is to be able to work with someone else
"hands-on." Friends who tinker with engines are the first choice.
Two heads are always better than one, even if your friend doesn't know
outboards. Joining the Antique Outboard
Motor Club and getting to know the fine hobbyists in your area can be
very helpful. They are often willing to share their knowledge and try
to help someone who has tried to help himself.
Internet chat groups may also be a source of
suggestions. Ask a member on the
Antique Outboard Motor
Club site, post your question on
John's Old
Mercury site or try
Iboats Mercury Forum.
Q. You seem to specialize in early Mercs, can you also help with parts for my later model Merc?
A. Yes! We are a full service dealer for Mercury, Mariner, Force, Chrysler, West Bend Outboard Parts & Mercruiser Stern Drives,
as well as Evinrude/Johnson (now Bombardier.) . Let us know what you are looking for and we'll be happy to try to help.
Q. How do I order parts from you?
A. We accept MasterCard, Visa and, Discover cards. You can place an order
by credit card using our online shopping cart and checkout. You may order
by phone by calling us at 610-495-7774 or by FAXING us toll free at 888-OLD-MERC. For more
ordering information go to our order page.
A.
OldMercs.com is a parts-only resource for older Mercs. We operate out
of a larger parent company, East Coast Marine Service, and our shop services
only modern outboards (1986 and newer).
Owners of motors from the sixties and earlier who are seriously interested in repairing, running or restoring their outboards can find a wealth of information amongst the members of the
Antique Outboard Club. Consider joining the club, attending club meets, and getting to know some members in your area. Collectively, the members represent a tremendous resource for old outboard knowledge and most of them are more than willing to help folks who are willing to help themselves.
Q. I need a replacement lower unit for my outboard, can you help?
A. Water intrusion into lower units and the subsequent freezing, cracking or rusting that occurs, is a common source of failure in outboards.
Replacement lower units are in high demand. We are sometimes able to help with a used or rebuilt lower unit or the parts or service to repair or rebuild your existing unit. To find out if we can help, please contact us with the following information:
The model (or horsepower) and serial number of your engine.
Whether your motor is short shaft (15" - 16" transom height) or long shaft (20" transom height).
Whether you are looking for a complete assembly which would include the gears and shafts, or whether you are merely in need of an empty housing.
Remember, it is good practice to check gear lube frequently, especially in older outboards, and address any problems of water intrusion promptly.
Q. Can you help me diagnose a mechanical problem with my outboard?
A. While we try to help folks any time we can, it is frequently impossible to diagnose problems without examining your motor "hands-on". Please consider before emailing us, whether it wouldn't be better to have a mechanic look at it in person.
If your motor is older than your local dealer is willing to service, we'll do our best to help you, but we also expect you to do your best to help yourself. This would include obtaining the proper manuals and following any applicable diagnostic procedure. When you contact us, please have all of the necessary information available such as model or horsepower, serial number and part numbers or descriptions.
We ask you kindly not to contact us with questions that you can easily look up in your service manual.
If you still find yourself in need of technical help or advice you can call us at
610-489-9033.
A. If you live in Southeastern Pennsylvania or plan to be in the area and can bring your outboard to us, we will consider the purchase of some used outboards.
Please call first and we'll discuss it.
Unfortunately, due to the expense and damage inherent in shipping outboards, it rarely pays us to consider purchasing any used outboard that must be shipped to us.
Q. The part I need isn't listed here. Does that mean
you can't supply it?
A.
This site lists only some parts which we can supply on an ongoing basis. We
have many more items available including used parts. Send us a list of
the part numbers you need and we will be happy to quote pricing and
availability on those items.
Q. I need a Mercury decal set you don't list on this
site. Can you supply it?
A. We have no decals available for any 1964 or newer
models that are discontinued by Mercury. We suggest taking what
remains of old decals to a local computerized sign shop. They usually
can help.
Q. I'm having problems with your online shopping cart. What am I doing
wrong?
A.
We have discovered two keys to ensuring that our shopping cart works well
for you. First, the shopping cart requires the use of "cookies," small
bits of information written to your hard drive that help to keep track of
the items you wish to purchase. It is important when you place your
first item in your shopping cart to click on "Continue Shopping" instead of
using your "Back" button. This allows the "cookie" to be set that will
accurately keep track of your shopping cart items.
Second, some people will have difficulties with our shopping cart if they
have their browsers set to restrict or reject cookies. If you are
experiencing problems, check your security settings. You may need to
adjust them to place your order online. If you continue to experience
difficulties, please call us. We will be happy to take your order by
phone, and we will work to fix any problems on this site.
Q. How do I order items which are not listed in your
online catalog?
A. To order items which were quoted to you by email or
phone, or to inquire about items which you are not certain if we carry,
consider listing the items in the "comments" box on the order checkout form.
(This works only if you are also ordering items from our online catalog.)
You may also print out an order form, write in
your items, and mail or fax it to us (This is also the best method for those
who prefer to pay by check or money order.). When in doubt, orders
can also be placed by phone at the number(s) below.
Grubb's Marine a division of East Coast Marine Service
3363 West Ridge Pike, Pottstown, PA 19464 USA
Phone 610-495-7774 Fax 610-495-6868
